Forever chemicals can be absorbed through the skin

British Skin Foundation spokesperson says study is “an important first step” but further evidence is needed to convince relevant regulatory bodies to ban PFAS

New research has confirmed that damaging Poly- and perfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), or ‘forever chemicals’, can cross the dermal defence and enter the bloodstream.

Although studies have linked personal care products and PFAS concentrations in human blood and breast milk, it was previously believed that PFAS couldn’t penetrate the skin.

PFAS have useful stain repellent and water-resistant properties and are found in products ranging from clothing such as school uniforms, to personal care products including cosmetics. However, they are virtually indestructible and accumulate in the body following inhalation or ingestion, causing adverse health effects including cancer, impaired liver function and birth defects.

The research, conducted by the University of Birmingham, exposed multilayered lab-grown tissues mimicking normal human skin to 17 widely used and widely studied PFAS, many corresponding to chemicals regulated by the EU’s Drinking Water Directive. It measured what proportions were absorbed, unabsorbed, or retained. 15 substances showed substantial dermal absorption (at least 5% of exposure dose), with 13.5% of the most regulated PFAS, perfluorooctanoic acid, absorbed into the bloodstream and 38% retained within the skin for potential longer-term uptake.

Dr Oddný Ragnarsdóttir, Lead Author of the study said, “The ability of these chemicals to be absorbed through skin has previously been dismissed because the molecules are ionised. The electrical charge that gives them the ability to repel water and stains was thought to also make them incapable of crossing the skin membrane. Our research shows that this theory does not always hold true and that, in fact, uptake through the skin could be a significant source of exposure to these harmful chemicals.”

“Our study provides first insight into significance of the dermal route as pathway of exposure to a wide range of forever chemicals.”

Dr Mohamed Abdallah, Co-author of the study said, “Our study provides first insight into significance of the dermal route as pathway of exposure to a wide range of forever chemicals. Given the large number of existing PFAS, it is important that future studies aim to assess the risk of broad ranges of these toxic chemicals.”

Professor Viktoria Eleftheriadou, Consultant Dermatologist and British Skin Foundation spokesperson said 3D skin models have come a long way but “overlook crucial interactions between skin cells and lack other important cell populations present in real human skin. In addition, the condition of skin exposure to PFAS was very different to how these PFAS may come in contact with skin in real life.”

She said this study was “an important first step” but further studies are needed to provide the evidence to convince relevant regulatory bodies to ban PFAS. Many PFAS have already been banned by government regulation, and New Zealand will become the first country to ban PFAS in cosmetics from 2026.

A 2021 Environment Agency request to the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA) in the UK revealed nine PFAS were used in eyeshadows, mascara and lipsticks, but Caroline Rainsford, CTPA Director of Science said all cosmetics and ingredients are safe and PFAS have a very limited use in cosmetics because in most cases, comparable non-PFAS alternatives have been developed.

Rainsford added, “The UK and EU cosmetics industry are working towards a voluntary recommendation to proactively phase out all intentionally added PFAS ingredients by December 2025.”